Cylewet 5 Stks KY-040 Rotary Encoder Module met 15 × 16,5 mm met Knop Cap voor Arduino (Pack van 5) CYT1062

Checked all 5 on the scope. They all worked reliably down to 1.2V. (The product description says 5V), my projects usually run at 3.3V or 2.2V for NiMH battery powered. There is no ringing or glitching on the Clock, Data, or Button Data signals. (No need to de-bounce or worry about false data). My Fluke couldn't read any idle current, so it is less than 10uA. All lines are normally high. Pressing the button does not change the Clock or Data lines. Data is valid on Falling or Rising edge of the clock. Although, the data line is stable for a longer period of time when using the falling edge of the clock. There is one clock pule per indent on the shaft. Turning Clock-Wise. and using the falling edge, data is high. Turning Counter Clock-Wise. and using the falling edge, data is low. (Data level is reversed if you are using the rising edge of the clock. So, this is perfect for any project running from 2.2V to 5V. I am exceptionally happy with this product!

Was having hours of frustrations using analog potentiometers and other rotary encoder dials that were NOT soldered to a board like this one.Problems gone, results are spot-on accurate!Wish this was my first choice, would have saved dozens of hours.

I've been testing these now for a few days on my bench and they seem reliable. The action is smooth, with reasonably noticeable detent points. There are two steps per detent in the output. Markings on the pins are CLK, D0, SW, VCC, GND. CLK and D0 are the A and B pins. The switch is active low as delivered.The knob is ok, though it is only a press-fit. The pic is a little deceiving in that the end of the pot makes it look like a really high quality knob but the sides are the same plastic you get on most knobs. Taking one star for the knob quality.

Great feel and function. Will buy more of these to use in place of single turn pots as ten turn pots are a bit pricey...

It's a really good device, works as expected. It's logic is pretty simple: when CLK signal falls down, check the state of DT: if it's also "0" (zero) then it's a clock-wise rotation, if it's "1" - you're rotating counter-clock-wise. And of course you need some logic for de-bouncing.