MHCOZY ZigBee 1-kanaals 12V Smart Relay-schakelaar, instelbare zelfstroommodus en tijdelijke werkmodus, werkt met SmartThings, Alexa en Google Home (ZigBee hub vereist)

In gebruik met zigbee2mqtt (en dan aangestuurd via Home Assistant), configureren werkte in 1x zonder problemen, wordt meteen gedecteerd als eWeLink ZB-SW01 (met firmware 1.0.7)

Device gets quite often a hang-up…. Like 2 times a week. After replugging the usb cord for power it just runs for several days.Would not recommend for permanent installation.Testen in combination with Homey Pro 2023

Prima ding, kan er niets meer over schrijven. Werkt in Domoticz zoals het hoort.

I just wired it in parallel with the switch, gave it usb power, and clicked a couple buttons in home assistant. Perfect product

Fiable, compatible avec jeedom

I got this to open and close my ancient Genie garage door opener remotely. The garage door opener is hard wired to my wall switch, so I knew which wires needed to be 'closed' when the switch is pressed. Wiring it up was no issue at all.I could pair the unit just fine, but for the life of me I could not get HomeAssistant to activate it.1) After an hour of fiddling with it I changed the USB power cord and wall charger power source to a different one and it worked perfectly! So check you have enough juice getting to it even if it pairs but doesn't work.2) HomeAssistant sees this as a 'light' device and not a 'switch' So ...Edit your configuration.yaml in your HomeAssistant config directory and at the end, add something like this:zha:device_config:a1:c7:38:da:d1:f8:52:21-1: # format: {ieee}-{endpoint_id}type: "switch" # corrected device type(change device ieee ID to your's as shown in HA device config)Restart HomeAssistant.Then voila it works! Paired with a garage door tilt sensor you can do some fun automatons.As another reviewer said, it had 2 modes ... 1 mode makes electrical contact for 1 second and one mode its always on when activated, so you can work with that accordingly.

Ho scelto questo modulo per il fatto che lavora a 12v come il telecomandino stesso che andrà a comandare, e per il fatto che essendo zigbee si integra perfettamente nella mia rete. Ho usato un semplice alimentatore da 12v per alimentare entrambi e posizionati in una scatola 10x10 ermetica, fa il suo sporco lavoro. Finalmente posso aprire il cancello condominiale anche da remoto e senza eseguire alcuna modifica alla centralina condominiale. Ovviamente per fare ciò dovete avere manualità con il saldatore per estrarre i fili del pulsante dal telecomandino e la sua relativa alimentazione. Il resto semplice e perfetto. Integrato perfettamente in home assistant e con il tracciamento delle zone, si apre il cancello poco prima del mio arrivo, in modo da non far attendere anche le auto in coda dietro di me. Ottimo

This is a fabulous little ZigBee board. It's basically a changeover relay with brains. Works perfectly with my Homeassistant/ZHA/Sonoff-tasmota gateway setup.Though it does report to HA as a light, this can be changed by setting up a template switch as a wrapper around it. I did this as my board is controlling a dehumidifier - not a light.What you see is what you get. The board and a tiny little instruction sheet. Only interested in the wiring diagrams and microswitch functions, as I'm not doing anything with Alexa etc. All labelled correctly.Board accepts power through either a micro-usb or standard terminals. Power is not passed through to the relay circuit. It is an isolated dry contact. The antenna wire is good and can be uncoiled to a fair length.Powering up immediately puts the device in pairing mode. Discovery by the gateway was fast and painless.The default relay setting is what they call 'inching'. Found out that this is just momentary. When triggered, the relay side will flip for a second and then flip back. Good if you want control over things that rely on a momentary input.A microswitch on the board will change the mode to behave like a standard on/off relay, holding the position commanded until told otherwise. This is the mode I am using.Because this relay uses next to no power - if you have a device with a power adapter rated within the bounds of the board tolerance as I did (9V, DC), it is possible to splice this board between the device being controlled and the device power supply.Power the board using the dedicated power terminals with the device supply, but also run the device circuit through the relay. You'll need some tools, extra wires, a suitable junction box and some basic electrical knowledge to do this correctly.This gives a board that is always powered - also powering the device with its own adapter when the relay flips.We will see how it fares long term! If all good then I'll be grabbing a few more for other little projects.