Natriumhypochlorietgenerator, USB DC 5V Huishoudelijke Zelfgemaakte Reinigingswatergenerator voor Dagelijkse Reiniging

Tested the water with a PH test strip before using the device: PH7. Mixed 100ml of water + 1 scoop of salt, as per the instructions and waited for the device to shut off (note, the instructions say to watch for the green light to go out - there is NO light). Tested the water after: PH8. That's the opposite of what I expected

Note: Not a scientist - just a laymen hobbyist:I made 70ppm weak HOCl (hypochlrous acid) solution with this little electric charge adapter -- I believe -- needs valid testing. I use this strength to clean piercings and as mouth wash.Update: 4 stars because I would rather the manufacturer, or seller, include instructions to make hypochlorous acid (HOCl), rather than sodium hypochlorite (SH or NaOCl), or, if it's not possible with this device, say so, and explain. In addition, warnings and cautions should be stated. However, 1 star added back because price is so amazing, and, if it's successful at making HOCl, it will save me hundreds, and even thousands of dollars when compared to buying pre-mixed solution. I am assuming I may have to buy this unit again, once or twice a year, even if well taken care of. That cost is included in my estimate. It's also MUCH cheaper, and more convenient than other, larger commercial units. This brings it back up to 5 stars!The included instructions are for very concentrated HYPOCHLORITE, which is strong chlorine bleach. Making that would be pointless because I could just buy bleach from the store very cheaply, and safely. I could simply dilute that Clorox with water for disinfection, producing the same result, without the danger discussed below. Bleach also does not kill micro-organisms as well as HOCl, from the research I've read on Pubmed, and vetrenarians' documented research. In addition, weak bleach slightly damages skin, slowing healing. (Strong bleach can burn skin, of course.)The safety of making concentrated hypochlorite is questionable, according to several chemists in science forums I've read. They say that following these instructions can actually PRODUCE TOXIC CHLORINE GAS, BOTH DURING ELECTROLIZATION, AND AFTERWARDS WHILE MIXING VINEGAR WITH THE RESULTING HYPOCHLORITE (OR "BLEACH".) So I choose not to follow the included instructions, or mess with mixing "bleach" and vinegar.My results and recipe: I tested my solution with 0-500ppm chlorine test strips, and with pH test strips during preparation. I also tested for hypochlorite vs HOCl by testing for color-bleaching activity. I splashed some finished solution onto an old, dark, cotton T-shirt. There was no lightening of the color after a half hour. (However, it's worth noting that my used chlorine test strips did fade to white after 30-minutes -- unclear if this is due to chlorine evaporation, indoor LED lights, or color-bleaching of the strip.) (Not sure if this test method is valid. I will test again, and report back, after I've made a 200ppm solution for household cleaning, and doing more Internet research.)After slogging through the Internet for a while I found an HOCl formula to try. It is used by 2 other professional HOCl generators so I thought it was worth a go, after noting some safety precautions. The key to HOCl seems to be a low salt content.MY RECIPE:*Water - 1 Liter or 4+1/4 cups distilled or reverse-osmosis-filtered water (Mine water measures 7.0 pH. YMMV.)*Salt - 1 leveled scoop -- or 3/8 teaspoon pickling salt (non-iodized) -- (roughly) 2 grams = .352tsp = 1/3tsp = 3/8tsp -- pickling salt from Walmart. (I didn't have a 1/3-measure teaspoon so I used 3/8 tsp.) 1 of the included scoops (leveled) is very close 3/8tsp.*Vinegar - 1+1/8 teaspoons white distilled vinegar (I may try citric acid later.)*I mixed the ingredients in a repurposed, opaque, plastic coffee container, with a lid (Maxwell House preground tub,) that I cleaned well with alcohol first. It still smells like coffee, and recycled plastic can never be truly sterile, but nothing can live in HOCl so I'm not worried about it since I got all the oil off of it. I will explore buying a dark, glass jar or measuring cup later. I also used a plastic utensil to stir it to eliminate any reaction with metals. (I did use metal spoons for measuring though. Don't think it matters?)*After mixing well I tested the mixture for pH and, added a few drops of vinegar between tests, until I got it to just below 5.0 -- I estimate 4.7-4.8. My eventual amount of vinegar was 1+1/8tsp. VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE pH DOES NOT REACH 4.5, OR 6.1.*Then, outside on my balcony, (Make sure all connections are completely dry of course) I plugged this USB adapter into a 2000mA (5V/2A) USB wall charger, and put the other end into my mix. After seeing tiny bubbles form I laid the lid on top. IT RUNS IN 5-MINUTE CYCLES THEN SHUTS OFF. (Some chemists online say the formula may be sensitive to how much power you apply. This adapter is rated for 1A (1000mA) though so I don't believe using a faster charger, above 1A, will change anything. Faster chargers still won't give power above 1A. This unit would need to be capable of carrying 2A - 5A.)*I made sure it was bubbling and then covered the container to protect the formula from light and air JIK. However, I didn't seal the lid tight, making sure that the gas had somewhere to escape.I let it run for 5 minutes, then came back to test it with the chlorine test strips. It measured at about 50ppm. I unplugged and re-plugged the adapter and came back to test it again every 2 or 3 minutes. Ultimately I got around 70ppm after about 12 minutes.I estimate that it will need about 18 minutes reaction time -- 3.5 cycles -- for 100ppm. And 30-ish minutes for 200ppm. I will experiment and update.I immediately poured my solution into dark plastic spray bottles to be stored for (I hope) a week or two. I'll test it for chlorine again to see how long it remains effective in the bottles.ESSENTIAL PRECAUTIONS I'M USING:_______________________________________1) Keep the pH between 4.6 and 6 BEFORE applying the electric charge. A pH outside of this range can produce chlorine gas, or other dangerous reactions.2) Do NOT MIX VINEGAR IN AFTER ELECTROLIZATION. Mix it before. It's similar to mixing bleach and ammonia -- chlorine gas can result in toxic damage to humans and pets.3) Use fresh, distilled, or reverse-osmosis-filtered water. Things can get weird and unpredictable when water contains unknown ingredients. Extremely pure water also helps stabilize the final solution, allowing you to store it longer, according to Pubmed. In addition, tap water already contains active chlorine, which could affect the results.4) Make the solution outside, until you're very confident with your procedures - with no mistakes. Use good ventilation. Don't let pets sniff it while its "cooking" (and they will)! IF YOU EVER SMELL EGGS OR SULFUR, THAT'S TOXIC CHLORINE GAS!! Unplug the chord and get the mix outside, away from anyone. Air the house with fans if necessary. Isolate pets and kids. Dump it once it no longer smells, and start over, measuring your pH levels carefully, and re-checking your measurements.5) Don't expose the chlorine test strips to daylight, especially during testing. (I do everything at night, outside.) The results will not be correct if you do. (My strips faded almost immediately outside on a cloudy day.) Watch out for bright LED lights too. Protect the solution, and the test strips, from light as much as possible. The chlorine fades fast and is very sensitive to light and UV rays. Store the final solution in a dark opaque bottle. You could wrap clear bottles in duct tape as an alternative.6) The stored solution is very sensitive to temperature. Make sure it never gets above 77F (25C) degrees. It becomes ineffective above that temperature. In the summer you could store it in a dark place, low to the ground maybe, but the refrigerator is too cold. (50-77F) (10-25C.) If your house is always above 77F (25C), you'll just have to test it often with chlorine strips, and make small batches that only last a day or two. It's not a good solution for your car, or your purse, or camping, for this reason, unfortunately (unless you live in San Francisco I suppose.)7) Rinse this electric adapter very well after using it, with your pure water. You can add a little vinegar too, or saturate it in rubbing alcohol, then rinse. Shake it and let it air out well. I'm assuming this inexpensive unit is not made of titanium. The salt, and even hard water minerals will corrode and age steal quickly and it won't last long if salt is allowed to build up on it. (Salt also has an affect on the electrical charge.) (Update: To prevent rust and corrosion, I suppose you could try simply swishing it in rubbing alcohol, and skipping the water-rinse, but I am not sure what the extra, dried-on, ingredients in rubbing alcohol would do to your next batch of HOCl?? Can they be rinsed off?? Not sure.)***If anyone comes up with a better test to indicate whether hypochlorite or hypochlorous acid results from their recipe please post it in the Questions & Answers, or in your review. Thanks!***Edit: Updated for clarity and precision. Added precaution-suggestions, and temperature information. Updated star rating reasoning.Updated results of using my solution the next day.