Neewer TT560 Camera Flash Speedlite voor Canon Nikon Panasonic Olympus Pentax en andere DSLR-camera's, digitale camera's met standaard flitsschoen

Helaas gaat deze retour. Ziet er degelijk uit, testflits deed het goed, maar Canon 650D, een wat ouder model, kan het niet vinden met deze flitser. Kan functies niet instellen, camera geeft aan: niet compatibel of uitgeschakeld bij instellingen functies externe flitser. Normale flitser van camera werkt, kan deze externe er niet op vinden of gebruiken. Jammer

FEATURES> Uses 4 AA batteries> "Mini-stand"---may be used as a stand, or as tripod adapter. However, if you want a short stand, I suggest > Standard sych socket, and standard hot shoe> Power input socket--I have not found a specific battery pack charger for this unit.>> It looks like the rechargeable battery pack or the less expensive 8 AA cell power pack would work.> Velvet-like storage bag.PROS> Powerful> Versatile: head rotates up/down and sideways. Built-in option defuser.> 8 easily selectable power levels, equal to a range of 8 f-stops; from full power down to 1/128th power.> S1 or S2 selectable. Many modern digital cameras have a "preflash" before the main flash. S1 syncs with the first flash, S2 syncs with the second flash.CONS---general> Practically speaking, this is strictly a manual slave flash. That is, there is no TTL metering etc. In these days of digital photography, that isn't too much of a drawback, but it does mean that you have to guess at the settings. However, if you are consistent with your settings (ISO and F-stop) you'll be surprised at how quickly you are able to "guess" the correct power level (on the flash) the first time.> Large--7" x 2 3/4" X 2"--you need a big gadget bag to carry it around in with your camera.> Works fine in very heavy shade or a inside, but in sunlight or even in bright shade, the slave doesn't fire (presumably because it doesn't see the weak in-camera flash). Often one needs flash lighting to fill-in shallows in bright light. In shade one often needs flash lighting to improve saturation, to improve color balance, to show off texture, and to isolate the subject from the background. The solution is a sync cord, which I now use all the time . Just set the flash on "M" using the mode button when using a sync cord.FOR MACROPHOTOGRAPHY> The TT560 is heavy---about 16 ounces with batteries. Much too heavy for my macro-light bracket > A tiny, inexpensive, works well for macro work. However, you have to change the distance, ISO, or F-stop to change the light level.> I find that the TT560 is by far the most convenient flash for macro work, because I can just set up my camera for highest quality (e.g., ISO 200, F16, etc.) and use the power levels of the flash to adjust the light level.> Using a sync cord (instead of the built-in flash to trigger the TT560 as a slave), also avoids the built-in flash from washing out detail in macro-work.RECOMMENDATION> If you have the luxury of working at your own pace, then the exactly predictable output of the TT560 is better than that of a (Nikon, Canon, Lumix, etc. branded) TTL version of the same flash unit at 10x or 15x the price, because sometimes the TTL circuitry works against you. But, if you must work fast, or only have one chance to catch a shot, then the TTL circuitry (of more expensive models) is worth the exorbitant price.> The TT560 flash unit has no metering circuits, and your camera will NOT adjust to the flash. So, you have to adjust your camera (mostly the aperture and ISO) and/or the power level of the flash to get properly exposed photos. Unfortunately, modern cameras resist such manual adjustment. Even if you set the shutter speed and aperture manually, your camera will probably pump-up the ISO indoors etc, defeating your efforts. So you also have to set the ISO manually.Details:> Your lens will probably be sharpest between f5.6 and f11. The larger the number, the wider the depth-of-field. Usually, you'll want a wide depth-of-field. So, set your camera to manual or aperture-preferred, and the aperture at f8. For macro work, you probably need the extra depth of field at F16.> IMPORTANT: Set the ISO manually at 200 in your camera.> Take a picture at full power. If the picture is too dark, you can increase the ISO up to ~800, if that isn't bright enough, then open your aperture to 5.6. Alternatively, (in manual mode) you can set the shutter to a slower speed (say, down to 1/30 sec) to use more of the ambient light.> If ISO 200 at f8 (your aperture) results in a picture that is too bright, then reduce power level of the flash.> To get the unit to work as a slave, you may need to set your in-camera flash to "force flash" and highest exposure compensation if you have that option. Alternatively, the use of a sync cord is easier.FLASH VS FOCAL LENGTH> This (and most other) flash units will cover the angle of standard wide-angle lens (28mm lens in 35mm format; 14mm in 4/3rds format; etc.), especially if you use the built-in optional diffuser. So with the same ISO and aperture, you can illuminate more people with a wide angle lens (or a zoom zoomed to wide angle). However the result will look like a flat flash picture. For a very large group or a small room, you may have no choice than to use a wide angle lens, but if you can step back, with a narrower-angle lens (without sacrificing too much in aperture or ISO), you'll get a better photo:> A "normal" lens (50mm in 35mm format; 25mm in 4/3rds format; etc) etc. corresponds closest to the view of the human eye, and therefore the brain translates 3D information from such a photo. If illuminated by flash, a photo taken with a "normal" lens will have greater "depth-of-illumination" (e.g. the ears will be nearly as brightly lit as the nose) than the same photo taken with a wide angle lens, so the photo will have greater depth and look less like a flash picture. Indeed, most pros have a (non-zoom) normal lens to take pictures of groups or children, etc.> A moderate telephoto (75-135mm in 35mm format; 40-70mm in 4/3rds format; etc) is best for portraits, babies, etc., and pretty much essential for flash-illuminated portraits to be evenly illuminated. That is, the depth-of-illumination will be even greater than with a normal lens. Noses will appear smaller, and in general the photos will be more flattering.> These comments also apply to zoom lenses: In general, stand back and use a narrow angle when you can, at the lowest ISO and smallest aperture (up to f11) that you can. Usually that will require a relatively powerful flash, which is what your buy a TT560, or similar flash unit, for.> Click on “Stoney” just below the product title to see my other reviews, or leave a comment to ask a question.

I'm really happy with this flash. Sure I would have liked to spend an extra 400 dollars for the same result but this way I'm happier. There are a few things this flash doesn't do but at least for me that's more than OK, at least for now. I would not pay an extra 50 dollars for having a zoom function. And same goes for having E-TTL. I see some people really give a lot of credit to that E-TTL but I can't say I concur. Especially if you are a novice, what exactly are you going to learn using an automatic mode?! I mean, why did you buy a SLR camera? To learn how to take pictures in manual mode, right. Then why use the flash light in automatic mode? Don't you want to learn about lighting as well? That's how I see things. After all, is not that much trouble figuring out how to use it. Being artistic, that's a different story , but I really don't see how E-TTL would make you an artist. Manual mode puts you in control. I don't think shooting in automatic mode gives you much satisfaction, same goes with the lighting. If you don't know how, you learn. But don't tell me that E-TTL is better to begin with. It's better if you never want to learn and point-and-shoot is your style. Otherwise, a flash like this one is ideal. Inexpensive and very versatile. There is plenty of control on it, yet remains extremely simple. At this price you can actually explore the possibilities you get when using multiple flash lights. I want to see you doing that, especially as a novice, with a flash that costs a few hundred dollars. I know there are a lot of people that are clueless but full of money, still trying to figure that one out, but for the still logical world this flash is by far a better alternative for a novice than a more complex and probably much more expensive unit.I will not list the features here as some reviewers do, please read the description of the product for that. They included an excerpt from the instructions included with the flash, the useful part, so you'll know what you get.Overall I'm very happy with this one. The only problem is you still have alternatives out there. They might also be good, but this one surely is.

La conception et les matériaux sont de très bonne qualité. Notamment le logement des piles qui est ici très robuste et simple à la fois (et qui a laché sur mon ancien flash Nikon SB-600 :- (Je me demande même si le Neewer n'est pas même mieux conçu que le Nikon d'un point de vue mécanique et électrique...Je l'utilise sur un Nikon D50. Le flash Neewer déclenche automatiquement. Il faut par contre veiller au préalable à bloquer le petit flash incorporé au bôitier.Sur le photos du produit, on ne voit pas l'arrière où se trouve l'interface. Il n'y a pas d'écran LCD mais :1 bouton "+" et 1 bouton "-" pour régler manuellement l'intensité du flash : Il y a 8 témoins lumineux qui s'allument en fonction.1 bouton "mode" pour passer de mode normal à esclave 1 et esclave 2.1 bouton test pour déclencher le flash manuellement (permet de voir s'il fonctionne).1 bouton on/off4 témoins lumineux "M", "S1", "S2" et "Power"Tout ça se manipule très bien.Enfin, le flash se fixe sur le sabot en serrant une bague en plastique (pas de système de blocage à l'aide d'une petite manette).Pour mon usage qui n'est qu'occasionnel ce nouveau flash au prix imbattable suffit très largement.J'ai l'impression que l'entreprise chinoise qui fabrique les flash des grandes marques a décidé de vendre sa propre marque avec des prix divisés par 3 ou 4... : - )

No es el mejor flash del mercado pero si estas buscando un flash para usar totalmente en manual, es perfecto y relación calidad precio, perfecto para personas que se quieran iniciar en la fotografía con luz artificial.Yo lo uso con unos conectores inalámbrico y con softbox de hasta 90cm y tiene potencia suficiente.Hasta el momento no tengo una sola queja de este producto.Importante aclarar que NO se conecta con la cámara, pero en mi caso para la fotografía de producto a nivel profesional es perfecto, si hiciera un evento seria otro tema

Reicht für einen "Seltenblitzer" aus und funktioniert mit meinen Sony's sehr gut.