Polymaker PolyLite PETG transparant – 1,75 mm – 1 kg

Lässt sich genauso gut drucken, wie das PolyLite black :)0,2 mmSpeed: 80Acc / Jerk Control: off265C Nozzle80C PlateCooling 20% norm und maxOverhang 30% coolingMinimum Layer Time 15SCombing: not in Skin

I do not write reviews often but in the case of this filament, absolutely. I have always used Hatchbox for my PETG needs, but no longer. The filament was shipped in the normal brown Poly box but vacuum sealed in a non-reusable bag. That is ok with me because I knew when I opened the package, the hiss let me know it was sealed correctly. As always, dry out your filament, especially PETG. I let this run at 54c for 8 hours before using. This is not my first translucent filament but it has been the EASIEST to print with. Stringing is basically non-existent, adhesion is not a factor and the quality of the prints are immaculate. I have tried countless filaments over the years from all manufacturers. Poly is my go to PLA using PLA Pro or Polylite because I have never had one issue with their filaments, so why not try their PETG. Yes this comes in a cardboard roll which I am fine with.Right now I am printing this with heavy infill because I need the strength but the transparency is VERY good even with 40% infill. Printing with a larger nozzle, less infill, thicker walls, and post-processing will give you a clearer finish. Print this slower than PLA. You can also go down to .1 and REALLY slow printing for a very clear finish, but will lose strength and time printing.PETG can be a little tricky if you do not have the correct temps / retractions. Surprisingly, I print this at a lower temp than other PETG filaments. I am running a Titan Direct Drive so my retraction settings will differ from a Bowden setup. I have printed this with Marlin without issue and currently running Klipper with BETTER results.Setup: Creality CR10-v3 STOCKBed: G10When printing on Glass I raise 5cCura Settings for a stronger PETG print (Currently using settings for fan ducts for Hero Me G7).4 brass nozzle.2 layer height.4 line width1.2 wall thickness2 Top Surface Skin LayersMonotonic Top/Bottom UncheckedSkin in Z Gaps UncheckedIroning Unchecked40% infillConnect Infill Lines UncheckedTemp 235Build Plate 80Initial Layer Bottom Flow 108%Print Speed 40mm/sMy Titan Extruder Retraction settingsEnable RetractionRetract at Layer change CheckedRetraction Distance .8Retraction Speed 45mm/sRetract before outer wall CheckedLimit Support Retractions UncheckedEnable Print cooling UNCHECKED With Klipper, turn off all Acceleration Control, Jerk Control, Z Hop when retracted. Take your time with the Klipper setup and go through each step in order, not skipping. If you walked through all Klipper settings, everything will print GREAT. If not, blame the user and not the tools. I skipped a couple the first time through and was so confused as to why everyone loved Klipper because my results were terrible. Impatience got me. I went through the setup again (took my time, couple days), and I am sold. I will not go back to Marlin.For a good print, everyone should make sure a couple of things are in order regardless of slicer, firmware or printer...1. Your bed is level2. No seriously, take the time and level your damn bed3. Do not write bad reviews because filaments do not stick to your unlevel bed4. ESTEPS. Tune them, per roll, not per filament. It can change from roll to roll. Also, tune your ESTEPS at the temperature you are going to print at (start a spreadsheet and keep track of settings to cut down on the time it takes when changing rolls).5. Correct temperatures. This can also change PER ROLL and depending on how dry it is. If you hear a slight pop sound, too much moisture.6. Bed adhesion. I have used Carborundum glass beds, thick mirrors, HomeDepot 12in mirrors and now G10. There is ONE common factor to all of them, do not touch the bed. EVER. Wash the bed with dish soap and water, then dry with a clean, lint free cloth. Glass beds would require me to clean them every few prints. G10, pfft. I just wipe it down with the blue shop roll paper towels and done. Now if I TOUCH the bed, I clean it with dish soap and water. You can also use 99.99% alcohol to wipe the beds down as well. Spend $20 and get a G10 sheet. You will not be sorry.Happy Printing!

Great filament, need to dry before printing, price seems bit higher, printed many trays with it, works great!

I have purchased directly from the Polymaker website before, but they were having a sale on amazon this week when I went looking for more filament. I have in total purchased 5 spools of different filament from them, 3 of which were their clear-colored Polylite PETG.During my latest project, I opened a new spool and right out of the package, it was tangled. Not a huge deal, I just unwound it slightly and then rewound it back when I had untangled what I could see. I'm glad that I don't run my 3D printer without actively monitoring it, because there were several more tangles hidden throughout the spool that I found when running a 10 hour print. Thankfully I caught them, paused my print and managed to fix it, but someone less attentive may have had their machine jam up mid print and end up wasting a few hundred grams of plastic on a failure.

Loved the clear PETG. Lots of practical use cases for it, so I highly recommend having at least one spool on hand. Plus Polymaker is the best filament in my biased opinion. However my only feedback to Polymaker, please make a plastic spool adapter for the AMS that fits and comes with the spools or go back to plastic spools. This will give us the option to choose to use the adapter or throw away. It will still save on plastic compared to full plastic spools but an all plastic spool wouldn't need to have a footprint if it was reusable. Pressed cardboard is nice but I would like to see reusable spools across the market before anything. As a side note for AMS users, you can print adapters that work and with the lid closed so don't fret the cardboard if you use a multi-material machines.