RAD Sportz Kajak Hoist Kwaliteit Garage Opslag Kano Lift met 120 lbs Capaciteit Werkt zelfs als Ladder Lift Premium Kwaliteit, Zwart

Hat alles geklappt. Qualität ist gut und erfüllt seinen Zweck zu einem ordentlichen Preis.Danke

Everything work very well as described

This is a super product and it was easy to install (the ropes for the pulley system took a bit to work out) and it took my 2 paddleboards perfectly up to the roof of my shed.The pulley fixings were very good quality and were easily capable of carrying the load. Very impressed. I can now get my bikes out so much easier from the shed.

Excelente artículo. Lo he utilizado para un portaequiaje de una camioneta. Sólo tener en cuenta que con los ganchos incluidos el portaequipaje cuelga demasiado bajo: tuve que elaborar un par de soleras para pegar más a techo el portaequipaje. Las correas incluidas son de primera calidad, pero para pegar aún más a techo tuve que ocupar un par de eslingas con matraca. Además sugiero taquetes expansivos para el techo. Con estas modificaciones ha que dado perfecto.

Before buying this RAD kayak hoist I had already owned four RAD bike hoists! Three are used for bikes and the fourth is used as a kayak hoist to store my sea kayak inside the garage for the winter. I was impressed with the quality of the bike hoists and I am equally impressed with the quality of this kayak hoist.There are some important design differences between the bike and kayak hoists; for example, the kayak hoist uses two ropes to lift the kayak vs. one for a bike which, to my mind, means the kayak hoist can lift more weight. The kayak hoist rope is also thicker. The kayak hoist itself seems stronger (think “heftier”) but this means the bracket which screws into the mounting board hangs down further (5.5" vs. 3" for the bike hoist). The hooks for the kayak strap are more pronounced and thus less likely to slip away from the strap.When I used a bike hoist for a sea kayak I “wrapped” a common/generic nylon tie-down strap with a simple clench teeth mechanism around the kayak. I use the same strap used to secure the kayak to my car roof racks. I then slipped the bike hooks under the strap such that there was very little space between the strap/hook and the deck of the kayak.The low profile of the bike hoist (approximately 3") means I was able to hoist the kayak very close to the ceiling joists so the garage door was able to clear the kayak. Given this is a winter storage place for my kayak I use a couple of extra straps (same type as for the roof racks) further along (forward/back bow/stern) from the straps used for the hoist but also around the joists so that four straps hold the kayak in place. This is important because we park our car under the kayak during the winter. Sometimes I add a fifth strap around the joist and around the kayak in the cockpit area.The advantage of a hoist is that it can easily lift a kayak (or bikes) into place and then, depending on need/use/placement, other straps can increase the degree of safety. I use a stepladder to reach the kayak and joists to add extra straps. I don’t bother with extra straps for the bikes given their relatively light weight and nothing is below them. I wouldn’t use extra straps for the kayak in the summer if I was frequently using the hoist to go paddling, but I would use the lift cleat mentioned in the instructions.When I installed the kayak hoist yesterday I used the 2" x 6" mounting board I used for the bike hoist which was mounted on the underside of the joists. I was now dealing with more “hang down” distance from the joists. There are a couple of helpful space (aka, head room) saving ideas (drawings 5 and 6 of the installation instructions). Although I returned to using the bike hoist for this winter I will likely try the suggestion in drawing 5 (mounting board on top of the joists) next spring.The only instruction I’d take exception to concerns the rope. The manufacturer says enough has been included so that a spacer rope can “first” be cut between 6'-10' to keep the hooks from sliding apart. I cut my rope at 7'. Users are then advised to cut the remaining rope in half to form two ropes. However, in my experience a user will end up with ropes hanging down of two clearly different lengths given drawing 9 which shows Rope 2 having more distance to travel (i.e., the space between the two brackets).Instead of cutting the rope in two I’d suggest keeping it as one length which will allow users to balance out of lengths after threading the kayak hoist - one end of the rope becomes rope 1 while the other end becomes rope 2. I would advise against cutting a spacer length of rope until after the hoist has been completely assembled.Users could cut any excess rope/loop hanging down to create two equal lengths (after the spacer rope has been removed) as the instructions suggest or if a continuous length has appeal, then simply disassemble rope 1 to cut a suitable length from the end of rope 1 for the spacer rope. Another reviewer, who didn’t like the quality of the rope, was going to a hardware store to find a replacement. Users (like me) who have no/little extra rope may find purchasing a spacer length something to consider instead of removing it from the rope provided in the kit.In summary, the RAD kayak hoist seems well designed of strong quality material. The instructions are clearly written offering some installation options depending on your circumstances. The tricky part is mounting the hoist high enough so it can lift a kayak higher than a garage door (if present) when it is being opened.