VEVOR Garagedeurafdichting 4,8 m met rail, rubberen afdichtingstape, 10 cm breed, 8 mm T-uiteinde om het binnendringen van wind te voorkomen, regen, blad, sectionele deur, magazijn, fabriek

De rail bestaat uit meerdere delen tot een maximum van 500 cm. Het rubberen deel is eenvoudig in te korten en voldoet aan de verwachtingen.

Buena Calidad y se ve que hará el trabajo para donde lo usaré.

Super produit, il s est bien adapté à mes deux portes de garage. Facile à monter. Le colis arrive dans un petit colis facile à transporter car fait avec avec plusieurs réglettes aluminium a aligner pour la mise en place et le caoutchouc est enroulé.

Le rail aluminium est fourni en tronçons de 50 cm. Ils sont à abouter les uns aux autres tout le long du bas de porte. J’avais perso 3,2 m. ils sont pré-percés de 3 trous. J’avais des lors 18 trous (comme au golf) à percer dans le profil acier de la porte. J’ai choisi d’utiliser des rivets, ce qui m’a permis de ne pas fixer le dernier profilé alu pour pouvoir enfiler le joint d’un côté, et riveter par dessus le dernier profilé. Des boulons et écrous marchent aussi, mais alors comment enfiler le joint si pas de place à un bout? Je laisse les bricolos y réfléchir. Le joint est fort souple et quelque peu déformé par l’emballage. J’y ai enfilé un tuyau d’arrosage à l’intérieur du boudin pour rigidifier un peu.

I am a 49 year old female. I managed this entire task alone - I have no prior construction experience whatsoever. Truth be told, I had to watch a YouTube video on how the screw & nut worked together (hint - once you screw the new aluminum bottom into the door, you need to screw the nut onto the back. Make sure it goes all the way to the bottom and is tight). You can do this!The supplied instructions suck and didn’t provide what I needed as a new homeowner who isn’t accustomed to poking holes in garage doors. The poorly named “instructions” don’t even tell you what drill bit to use to make the holes, or why so many screws are provided.So I’ll try to give you the info that I wish I had when I was doing this repair.I have a 16 foot door, so got the channel and the rubber. Set comes with metal screws (flat tip) and nuts for aluminum doors. If you have a wooden door, the kit also provides wood screws (pointy tip).The metal bottom comes in several parts and I needed to trim the final piece since it would have been too long. I did this slowly with a hacksaw (only after all of the other pieces were already up so I could get an exact measurement of what to cut off. Safety glasses and gloves here, please. I used a metal rasp to file the edges carefully so that it was less of a hazard to my fingers.Step 1 - lower your garage door so the you are able to work with your hand about waist level or a bit higher.Drill your holes - measure carefully. Each aluminum piece has 3 holes that need to be drilled and then screwed. I had a drill and an impact driver for this just so that I didn’t have to keep switching between a bit and a screwdriver head. After I did 3, then the next piece went up, drilling only the hole closest to the prior one, screwing it in, and checking that the alignment worked. You want to really ensure that you’re butting up against the other channel piece. Again, gaps will make it tough to slide that diver. You do not want to cut it because of shoddy workmanship. Go slow, do it once and do it right. You don’t want bugs, mice or weather inside, right? So do it correctly the first time.Make sure each section of the new bottom aligns as close to perfect as possible because once the bottom is on, you’ll need to insert the rubber into the channels. It gets fed from one end of the door and you have to pull, adjust, slide all the way down. This whole rubber-bottom thing was quite difficult to do alone so if you have a buddy or two to recruit, call them. It’s not hard, just a pain to do alone.First, dry rubber going into a dry metal channel is not going to be fun. Grab a bottle of dish soap and lubricate each of the rubber ends. Really slather it on. It won’t damage the rubber. The rubber is not heavy but 16 feet of it sure is cumbersome. I was fortunate to have a table that I was able to work near and I coiled it up on that.I read online that each side should have a 1/2”to 1” overhang of rubber to accommodate any shrinking associated with cold weather. I had a little more on each side but did not bother to trim it.Good luck!!Finally, I purchased “3/4 in. x 20 ft. Closed Cell Backer Rod, Expansion Joint Polyethylene Foam“ from my local big box retailer (orange aprons), and slid that into the middle circle looking part of the rubber to give it a littlemore protection.Good luck!!

Used this on a double garage rollup door - just under 5m, so needed all 10 x 50cm aluminium sections. Decided to enlarge the pre-drilled holes a little, to allow the ends of each strip to be neatly aligned when tightening the screws. Inserting the rubber seal would be easier with an extra set of hands, but was possible for one person by pausing regularly to align the feed-in. With it all fitted to the door, it produced a neat result and was worth the effort.