VEVOR Klasse 3 trekhaak, 2 inch ontvanger, Q455B-stalen buisframe, 1000 kg, multi-fit-koppeling voor het opnemen van een kogelhouder, bagagedrager, fietsendrager, sleephaak, zwart

Such an easy installation, no need to drop the exhaust. Took me maybe an hour to put it on. Very simple, I bought some removable hitch fittings, great value for the price you pay.

As several other folks have mentioned, the quality of the hitch is excellent. It's very heavy duty and comes packaged extremely well. The appeal of this hitch to me was that it was in 3 parts. I could install the two side hangers and then attach the cross bar. I did this by jacking up the rear of my 2021 Rav4 Prime to the highest point supported by a jack stand on either side. The whole job would have been much easier if you could put the car on a lift and stand under it. The problem is that the directions are completely worthless, and if you're unfamiliar with the frame and what's under there, it takes a long time going slowly to figure out. If I had these directions, it could probably be done in under an hour. I hope they help others. So here we go.1. Unpack everything. You will have 2 hangers (they call them trestles) which are not identical and a cross piece (they call it a drag bar body) that has the hitch. You will also have a big bag of bolts.2. Notice that the 2 hangers do not have their holes in the same position. With the hanger in the "down" position, the passenger side hanger has 1 hole on the vertical side and 2 holes on the horizontal part. The driver side has 2 holes on the vertical side and 1 hole on the horizontal part. I've tried to show this in a terrible drawing I've attached below - sorry, but I'm not an artist. It's Picture #1 You may want to refer to it again later.3. Set the cross piece with the hitch and hangers aside and empty out the bag of bolts. The parts list on the "directions" can help a little here. They've divided the "notes" section into the 3 different places they will be used. The first is for the hitch itself. Item #3, is the one short m12 bolt with flange and just goes into the screw hole on the underside of the 2 inch hitch opening if you decide you want to use it (picture #2). For now, screw it into the hitch and forget about it. Continuing to the rest of the parts, you should know that what they call "flat gaskets" are flat washers and "spring washers" are lock washers. Gather the last 4 items (12-15) by the note "used to connect the bar body and bracket" all together and set aside (picture #3). You will use those to attach the cross piece to the hanging brackets after they're installed on the body. Everything else that's left is (or may be) used to attach the brackets to the body. Notice that there's one odd looking nut on a short horizontal piece with a long metal tab. That nut fits the M10 hardware and we'll explain later how you use it.4. Now you have to get under the car. We're going to start on the passenger side. Get underneath and look up and you should be able to see a fairly square boxy looking piece that runs back to the bumper. This is the frame. On the underside, you should find 2 bolts mounted into the frame. On my car, they were attaching a tow bracket that hung down about 6 inches. But they may also just be holding a rubber gasket in place. Either way, they should be there. Remove those bolts (and the bracket - you don't need it with a hitch), but save them. At this point, hold the passenger side hanger so the horizontal surface fits against the frame bottom and the upper vertical surface is against the frame side. The long part goes towards the front of the car. With the two holes in the hanger lined up to the two holes in the frame, you should notice that the upper hole on the frame side is covering a black plastic circle (Picture #4). Set the bracket back down and use a utility knife or sharp edge to lift up that black circle. It's just a sticker covering a hole with a nut welded to the frame. Picture #5 shows the hole you uncovered and picture #6 shows the two empty bolt holes on the bottom of the frame. Don't worry about the rubber gasket between them, just leave it there.At this point, you just have to hold the hanger in place and mount it with the two screws you removed from the frame and one additional screw, washer and lock washer (M12*45) for the hole you just uncovered. DO NOT tighten the screws all the way. You want some significant play to make attaching the cross bar easier. Picture #7 shows this hanger in place. By the way, the M12 bolt should have the lock washer on first, then the flat washer goes against the hanger.5. Now you're going to do the same basic thing on the driver's side. However, there's nothing at all attached to the frame on that side. If you hold up that hanger, you'll see that there's a rubber gasket in a hole on the bottom of the frame and two black plastic circles on the vertical side of the frame that line up with the corresponding holes in the hanger. Set the hanger down. Remove the two plastic circles like you did on the other side and you'll see the welded nuts underneath. Then pry out the rubber gasket on the bottom and you'll see that there is not a welded nut - just an opening in the frame (picture #8). Find that odd looking nut with the metal handle. You can insert that into the hole (Picture #9) so the nut on the crossbar sits across the hole(Picture #10). Bend the handle backwards so you can thread the M10 bolt into the nut. This can be tricky and I ended up not using it - but I'm only using this for a bike rack. The other two bolts are so strong, I don't think you are compromising the integrity of the hitch much. It's rated for 6000 lb.s and the car is only supposed to tow 2500 (at least for the Prime). So now install the two upper bolts and if you can, the lower bolt, but again, don't fully tighten them.6. Now get the crosspiece and the remaining 8 bolts, washers, lock washers and 6 nuts. When you look at the ends, you'll see that one of the bolts threads directly into the body of the crosspiece which is why you only need 6 nuts. (picture #11) With the hitch pointing backwards and the bolt you inserted earlier on the bottom, slide it between the hangers and attach it with the bolts. Tighten all these bolts securely.7. Finally, go back and fully tighten all the hanger bolts and you should be done. Picture #12 shows what it looks like installed.Sorry if that was a bit longwinded, but the overall concept is pretty simple once you understand how it all fits together. Good luck!

Facile, même pour débutant (environ 60 minutes)L'installation est accessible aux débutants et prend environ 60 minutes. Vous aurez besoin d’une clé de 18 mm, d’une douille de 17 mm et d’une douille 5/8", avec une rallonge.Les instructions fournies ne sont pas très claires, donc voici un conseil important : effectuez d'abord le montage complet des pièces sans serrer. Une fois tout en place, vous pourrez serrer les boulons à la fin pour un ajustement optimal.

Ich in Richtung sauer.Ich sitze im Rollstuhl vor derWerkstatt und die Kupplung passt nicht.Sie sind nicht Zähigkeit die richtige. Ware zu schicken DerRaf4 ist Bj.2017,dass habeich mehrfach angegeben.Wer bezahlt mir das???

Just wanted to personally thank Christopher F for the review he wrote to explain what the instructions didn'r say.It made the whole procedure easy and saved a lot of time. Thanks for help. Very concise and the drawings were especially useful.Excellent hitch with plenty of strength. Great fit for my Rav 4.